Howling Hops used to be based underneath The Cock in Hackney, but its new home - a beerhall that’s 50 per cent central Europe, 50 per cent post-industrial, in Hackney Wick 0 is much better. The beers are pretty good; the Pils, a 4.6 Bohemian pale lager is a decent representation of the style while the cloudy, spicy, aromatic Rye Wit hits the target on a warm day. Beers are served in ⅔-sized fat-bottomed glass mugs, in the Czech style. At the back are sacks of malt, chosen by someone who knows their stuff: there’s Weyermann and Warminster, the Citra and Nelson Sauvin of the maltsters world. Everything seems just-so.