For a beer in a style that was almost extinct, this one has a whole lot of life. Wit (or white) beers were a popular style in Belgium for five hundred years, and even a century ago there were many artisan producers; but in the post-war years the last of the traditional white beers ceased production. Now, decades after the style's resurrection, a handcrafted ale replete with the complexities and liveliness that endeared generations of beer aficionados is available again.